---
type: species
title: "Uaru Cichlid Care Guide: Keeping the Poor Man's Discus Healthy"
slug: "uaru"
category: "freshwater"
scientificName: "Uaru amphiacanthoides"
subcategory: "South American Cichlid"
lastUpdated: "2026-04-26"
readingTime: 10
url: https://www.fishstores.org/species/uaru
---

# Uaru Cichlid Care Guide: Keeping the Poor Man's Discus Healthy

*Uaru amphiacanthoides*

Master Uaru amphiacanthoides care. Learn about tank requirements, their unique vegetarian diet, and why these gentle giants are the perfect Discus alternative.

## Species Overview

The uaru (*Uaru amphiacanthoides*) is the cichlid that quietly built a cult following while everyone else was fawning over discus. Sometimes called the triangle cichlid for its blocky, geometric silhouette, and more often nicknamed the "Poor Man's Discus," this South American native delivers most of what makes discus magical — the same blackwater origins, the same shy intelligence, the same parental devotion to fry — at roughly a quarter of the price and with significantly more forgiveness for parameter drift. The "poor man's" tag undersells them. Uaru are not a budget substitute. They are a legitimate centerpiece species with behaviors no discus will ever show, including a near-total commitment to herbivory and a willingness to chew through every plant you spent six months growing.

Adults run 10 to 12 inches and develop a deep, almost laterally compressed body that fills the vertical space of a tall tank in a way few cichlids can match. They are slow, deliberate swimmers, they school loosely as adults, and they are remarkably peaceful — until spawning, when even the most chilled-out pair will commandeer half the tank.

| Field       | Value                          |
| ----------- | ------------------------------ |
| Adult size  | 10-12 in (25-30 cm)            |
| Lifespan    | 8-10 years                     |
| Min tank    | 75 gallons (pair)              |
| Temperament | Peaceful, social               |
| Difficulty  | Intermediate-Advanced          |
| Diet        | Omnivore (60-70% plant matter) |

### The Poor Man's Discus: *Uaru amphiacanthoides* vs. *Uaru fernandezyepezi*

Two species share the uaru name in the hobby and they are not interchangeable. *Uaru amphiacanthoides* is the standard, widely available species — the one you will find at any cichlid-specialty store and the subject of every care guide written in the last forty years. It is hardier, more forgiving of parameter swings, and the species this guide is built around.

*Uaru fernandezyepezi* (the panda uaru, or fernandezi) is the rarer, more demanding cousin from the Atabapo and upper Orinoco drainages. It demands extreme blackwater conditions — pH below 5.0, near-zero hardness, and water that looks like weak tea — and it shows much higher mortality in shipping. If you are buying your first uaru, you want *amphiacanthoides*. If a store labels a fish simply as "uaru" and the price is under $40, it is almost certainly *amphiacanthoides*. *Fernandezyepezi* are routinely $150-plus per juvenile and clearly marketed as such.

The two species also look different as adults. *Amphiacanthoides* shows a large dark triangular blotch on the lower flank, fading to lighter gray-tan upper body. *Fernandezyepezi* keeps a more uniform body color with finer vertical barring and a distinctive pinkish-cream hue.

### Juvenile vs. Adult Appearance: The Dramatic Color Shift

Few cichlids transform as completely as a uaru. Juveniles up to about 3 inches are covered in a chaotic mottled pattern of cream, brown, and white blotches — what hobbyists call "camo coloration." It looks nothing like the adult fish. New keepers regularly assume their juveniles are sick or stressed because the pattern is so disruptive. It is not. This is a deliberate predator-evasion adaptation that helps fry blend into leaf litter and submerged root tangles in their native streams.

Around the 4-inch mark the camouflage starts to break down. The body lightens to a tan or pale gray base, the chaotic blotches consolidate into the species' signature dark triangular flank patch, and the eye develops its characteristic deep red rim. By 6 inches the transformation is complete. The adult coloration is more subtle than discus, but the body shape and the contrast of the dark triangle against the pale flank is unmistakable across a planted tank.

> **Don't panic when your juveniles look 'wrong'**
>
> Buying juvenile uaru and watching them lose their camo pattern is part of the appeal. The first time you see it happen you may convince yourself the fish are stressed or diseased. They are not. The mottled juvenile pattern is normal, the transition is normal, and the lighter adult body with the dark triangular blotch is the goal.

### Natural Habitat: The Blackwater Tributaries of the Amazon

Wild *Uaru amphiacanthoides* live throughout the central Amazon basin, with strongholds in the Rio Negro, the lower Rio Branco, and the slower tributaries of the Tapajos. These are blackwater systems — slow-moving, shaded, and stained the color of strong tea by tannins from decaying leaf litter. pH in their native streams routinely sits between 4.5 and 6.0. Hardness is functionally zero. Temperatures hold between 82F and 88F year-round.

Critically for tank design, these waters are dense with structure. Uaru hide among submerged tree roots, fallen branches, and beds of decaying leaves. They forage along these structures and shred soft aquatic vegetation when they encounter it. They almost never venture into open water, and they will not use a barren tank well no matter how clean the parameters. The visual reference to keep in your head while building a uaru tank is not a bright planted aquascape — it is the bottom of a flooded jungle floor.

## Water Parameters & Tank Requirements

Uaru are bigger than they look in a store tank. A 4-inch juvenile in a holding tank will reach 10 inches inside two years if fed properly, and that adult will need real square footage to live comfortably.

| Parameter       | Target                  | Notes                               |
| --------------- | ----------------------- | ----------------------------------- |
| Temperature     | 82F-86F (28C-30C)       | Stable warmth is non-negotiable     |
| pH              | 5.0-6.5                 | Soft, acidic blackwater             |
| GH              | 0-5 dGH                 | Very soft                           |
| KH              | 0-3 dKH                 | Low buffering, monitor pH stability |
| Min tank (pair) | 75 gallons              | 120+ gallons for a group of 4-5     |
| Tank dimensions | 48 x 18 x 20 in minimum | Width matters more than height      |
| Filtration      | 8-10x turnover/hr       | Oversized canister, gentle return   |
| Water changes   | 30-40% weekly           | Match temperature and pH            |

### Tank Size: Why 75 Gallons Is the Absolute Minimum for a Pair

A 75-gallon tank (48 x 18 x 20 inches) is the practical floor for a single bonded pair of adult uaru. That is not the recommendation — that is the line below which you should not consider keeping the species. The 18-inch front-to-back depth matters as much as the volume; a deep-bodied 12-inch fish needs room to turn, and the standard 12-inch depth of cheaper tanks will leave adults pinwheeling against the glass.

For a group of 4 to 5 uaru — which is how the species genuinely thrives — plan on a 120-gallon (48 x 24 x 24) at minimum, and a 180-gallon (72 x 24 x 25) is much better. Footprint trumps height for this species. They are a midwater fish that uses horizontal space, and a tall hex tank or a narrow show tank will not work no matter how many gallons it claims on the box. If you are still working out tank dimensions for a centerpiece species, our [aquarium dimensions guide](/guides/aquarium-dimensions) walks through the actual swimming-room differences between footprint and volume.

### Temperature and pH: Aiming for 82F-86F and Acidic Soft Water

Uaru want it hot. Stable temperatures between 82F and 86F are the target — not 78F, not 80F, and not anything that swings more than a degree or two over the course of a week. Cold uaru are stressed uaru, and stressed uaru are the ones that catch ich, develop hole-in-the-head, and stop eating. Use a quality heater (or two, for redundancy in tanks over 75 gallons) and verify with a separate thermometer that the actual water temperature matches the dial.

pH should sit between 5.0 and 6.5. Most municipal tap water is closer to 7.5 with moderate hardness, which is workable for tank-bred uaru but suboptimal. Driftwood, Indian almond leaves, alder cones, and peat-filtered water all pull pH down naturally and add the tannins these fish evolved with. If you are working from very hard tap water (above 10 dGH) you will need to cut with RO water to reach reasonable parameters. Aim for soft and acidic, but stable matters more than perfect — uaru tolerate slightly higher pH far better than they tolerate week-to-week swings.

### Filtration Needs: Managing High Waste Output with Oversized Canisters

A pair of adult uaru produces a serious bioload. They eat constantly, they eat large amounts of fibrous plant matter, and they pass it through quickly. Filtration needs to handle that without creating high-flow conditions the species hates.

The standard setup is an oversized canister filter rated for a tank one or two sizes larger than your actual tank — a Fluval FX4 or FX6, an Eheim 2178/2180, or equivalent. Aim for 8 to 10 times tank turnover per hour through the filter, but diffuse the return with a spray bar or a wide-output deflector. Uaru are blackwater fish; they do not enjoy the kind of strong, directional current that a riverine cichlid would tolerate. Sponge pre-filters on intakes are smart — uaru fry, when they show up, will get sucked into anything not pre-filtered.

> **Skip the bioload math at your own risk**
>
> A common mistake is buying juvenile uaru into a 55-gallon tank with the assumption that "we'll upgrade later." Uaru grow fast — 4 inches to 8 inches inside the first year is normal with proper feeding. By month 14 you will have outgrown that 55, and an 8-inch uaru in a too-small tank will develop spinal curvature, suppressed coloration, and chronic stress that no upgrade later can fully reverse.

## Diet & Feeding

This is where uaru break from almost every other large South American cichlid in the hobby. They are not the protein-hungry predators that oscars and green terrors are. They are functional herbivores with an opportunistic omnivorous streak, and their diet has to reflect that or they will develop digestive problems and hole-in-the-head disease within a year.

### The Herbivore Requirement: Why They Need Blanched Zucchini and Peas

A healthy uaru diet runs roughly 60 to 70 percent plant matter and 30 to 40 percent protein. That ratio is the inverse of what most cichlid keepers default to, and it is the single biggest reason imported uaru fail in home tanks — keepers feed them like oscars, and the fish develop chronic intestinal issues from a protein overload they were never built to process.

Daily staples should include blanched zucchini, blanched spinach, blanched romaine lettuce (rinsed well), cucumber slices with skin scored, and shelled cooked peas. Spirulina flakes and spirulina-based pellets are excellent core foods. Frozen mysis shrimp, blackworms, and quality cichlid pellets fill the protein side, but should be the supplement and not the staple. Avoid beef heart and other mammalian proteins entirely — uaru cannot process the saturated fats and chronic feeding leads directly to hole-in-the-head outbreaks.

### Why Uaru Will Eat Your Live Plants (and Which Ones Might Survive)

If you walked into this guide hoping uaru would coexist with a Dutch-style planted aquascape, the news is not good. Uaru are dedicated grazers and they treat soft-leafed aquarium plants — anubias being the rare exception — as food. Vallisneria, sword plants, cabomba, hygrophila, water sprite, and most stem plants will be reduced to ragged stems within weeks. Even tougher plants will get sampled.

The plants that have a fighting chance are the genuinely tough, slow-growing, low-light species. Anubias varieties (especially anubias barteri and anubias nana) grow slowly enough and have leaves leathery enough that uaru tend to leave them alone. Java fern is similarly leathery and survives most setups. Bolbitis heudelotii holds up surprisingly well. Floating plants like Amazon frogbit and red root floaters are usually safe because the fish rarely target the surface, and they double as light diffusers for the dim conditions uaru prefer.

If you want greenery in the tank, plan for these specific plants and accept that anything else is a snack. Our [low-light plants guide](/guides/freshwater-fish) has more detail on plants that survive grazing pressure.

### Uaru-Proof Aquascaping: Designing With Wood and Stone

Since you cannot lean on plants, lean on hardscape. The single most attractive uaru biotope tank in the hobby is built from large, gnarled driftwood pieces — Malaysian driftwood, manzanita, or cholla — arranged to create overlapping shadow zones and natural shelter. Uaru genuinely use this structure. They will hover beside a large piece of wood for hours, dart into the tangle when startled, and use prominent flat surfaces as spawning sites.

Layer in stones — large smooth river rocks, or rounded cobble for a Rio Negro look — at the base of wood pieces. Use a dark substrate (fine sand in tan or near-black) to absorb light and let the fish's coloration pop. Top everything with a layer of Indian almond leaves or oak leaves replaced every 2 to 3 weeks. The leaves serve double duty: they release tannins that drop pH and add the visual stain uaru evolved with, and they harbor microfauna that uaru fry and young fish will graze on.

The result is a tank that looks like a flooded Amazon tributary — dim, structured, golden-brown water — and uaru in that tank behave dramatically more confidently than fish in bright, sterile setups. Skip the colorful pebbles and bright LED bars; this is not the species for them.

### High-Quality Cichlid Pellets as a Protein Base

For your protein base, look for pellets formulated for South American cichlids that emphasize spirulina, krill, and whole-fish meals over generic fish meal and beef-heart binders. New Life Spectrum's discus formula, Hikari Cichlid Excel (vegetable-heavy), Northfin Veggie, and Repashy Soilent Green gel food are all proven choices. Feed two small meals per day — uaru tend to overeat readily — and skip a day every week or two to clear their digestive tract. A fasted uaru is a healthy uaru; an overfed uaru is a candidate for HITH.

## Tank Mates & Compatibility

Uaru are remarkably easy to stock around for fish their size. Their peaceful temperament, soft-water requirements, and warm-water preferences narrow the candidate list, but everything that does match makes a strong combination.

### Best Companions: Discus, Severums, and Geophagus

The single best uaru companion is more uaru — they thrive in groups and behave most naturally with their own kind. Beyond that, the best heterospecific companions are other Amazonian softwater fish that share their parameter range and peaceful temperament.

Discus (*Symphysodon* spp.) are the classic companion. Identical water parameters, similar shy temperament, complementary body shape, and the visual contrast between disc and triangle is striking in a large tank. The catch: uaru eat much faster than discus. In a mixed tank, target-feed your discus or the uaru will inhale every pellet before the discus realize food is in the water.

[Severums](/species/green-severum) (especially [gold severums](/species/gold-severum)) are another excellent match. Similar size, similar peaceful disposition, similar dietary preferences. Geophagus species — particularly the [red head tapajos](/species/red-head-tapajos) and other true Geophagus from the Brazilian shield — round out the substrate niche; they sift sand for food and rarely interact with uaru beyond brief recognition. [Keyhole cichlids](/species/keyhole-cichlid) and [chocolate cichlids](/species/chocolate-cichlid) work too. For dither schooling fish, [rummy nose tetras](/species/rummy-nose-tetra) and [cardinal tetras](/species/cardinal-tetra) are the gold standard — both species share the soft, warm, acidic preferences and will school in the upper water column without competing for uaru territory.

### Schooling Behavior: Why They Thrive in Groups of 3-5

Uaru are not solitary cichlids. They are loosely social as adults, they form pair bonds within larger groups, and they show their best coloration and most natural behavior when kept in groups of at least 3 — ideally 4 or 5. A single uaru in a community tank will survive, but it will not thrive; expect muted color, increased shyness, and a much lower likelihood of ever seeing breeding behavior.

Buying juveniles in a group of 5 or 6 and letting them pair off naturally is the proven path. As they mature, watch for two fish that consistently swim together, defend a section of the tank in tandem, and clean a flat surface together. You can then either let the rest of the group stay (in a tank big enough — 180-gallon plus) or rehome the unpaired individuals.

### Species to Avoid: Aggressive Central American Cichlids and Fin-Nippers

Skip everything aggressive. Central American cichlids — [convicts](/species/convict-cichlid), [jack dempsey](/species/jack-dempsey), [red devils](/species/red-devil-cichlid), [firemouths](/species/firemouth-cichlid), [Texas cichlids](/species/texas-cichlid) — share none of the temperament or parameter preferences and will bully uaru relentlessly. African Rift Lake cichlids ([mbuna](/species/demasoni-cichlid), peacocks) need hard alkaline water that is the opposite of what uaru need. Large catfish like [redtail catfish](/species/redtail-catfish), [iridescent sharks](/species/iridescent-shark), and [tiger shovelnose](/species/tiger-shovelnose-catfish) outgrow any reasonable uaru tank. Skip [tiger barbs](/species/tiger-barb), [serpae tetras](/species/serpae-tetra), and any other known fin-nippers — uaru fins are slow-moving targets and chronic harassment will stress the fish into illness.

## Breeding Uaru

Breeding uaru in a home tank is possible but requires a dedicated setup, the right pair, and patience. The parental behavior is one of the most fascinating processes in the cichlid hobby.

### Identifying a Mated Pair and the "Cleaning the Slate" Ritual

Sexing uaru visually is nearly impossible — males and females look essentially identical outside breeding condition, and only experienced breeders can reliably differentiate based on subtle differences in genital papilla shape during spawning. The standard approach is to buy 5 to 6 juveniles, raise them together in a 120-plus gallon tank, and watch for a pair to form on its own.

A formed pair is unmistakable. They swim together constantly, they defend a corner of the tank as a unit, and within weeks of pairing they begin "cleaning the slate" — scouring a flat surface (a large rock, a piece of driftwood, the tank glass) with their mouths to prepare it for eggs. This cleaning behavior can go on for days before any spawning. The female will then deposit a pattern of 200 to 400 eggs on the cleaned surface, and the male will fertilize them with passes immediately after. Both parents fan the eggs continuously and aggressively defend the area.

### Raising Fry: The Unique Slime Coat Feeding Phase

Here is where uaru join the small club of fish — including discus and a handful of other species — that produce a parental slime coat for fry to feed on directly. After the eggs hatch (typically 3 to 4 days post-spawning) and the fry become free-swimming (another 5 to 7 days), they will begin grazing on the parents' flanks, picking off mucus and microorganisms as their first food source.

This is not optional. Uaru fry that are separated from parents at this stage have very low survival rates. Leave the family unit intact, supplement with crushed flake and microworms after the first week, and gradually transition to baby brine shrimp by week three. Both parents will continue to defend and care for the brood for two to three months. By month four you can begin pulling juveniles to a grow-out tank. Expect a high-effort breeding cycle, modest fry output by cichlid standards, but extraordinary parental behavior to watch.

## Common Health Issues

Uaru are hardy when their core requirements are met, but they have two specific vulnerabilities that show up over and over in keeper reports.

### Hole-in-the-Head (HITH) Disease and Its Link to Water Quality

Hole-in-the-head — clinically associated with the *Hexamita* parasite but functionally driven by chronic stress and nutritional deficiency — is the single most common health failure in uaru. It presents as small pits and erosive lesions appearing on the head and along the lateral line, sometimes with white stringy feces and reduced appetite as early symptoms. Left untreated it advances to deep cratering of the head and eventual death.

The root causes are almost always chronic poor water quality (nitrates above 30 ppm), inadequate nutrition (too much protein, not enough vegetable matter, beef heart in the diet), and stress from co-housing or inadequate tank size. Treatment involves removing causes first — major water changes, a switch to a vegetable-heavy diet, and if needed, metronidazole in food at 1 percent by weight for 7 to 10 days. Caught early, HITH is fully reversible; caught late, the head pitting will scar permanently even if the fish survives.

> **The biggest single cause of HITH in uaru is overprotein diet**
>
> Keepers who feed uaru like oscars — heavy on pellets, beef heart, frozen bloodworms, krill — see HITH within a year almost universally. Switch to a 60-to-70-percent plant-matter diet from day one and the disease becomes uncommon. There is no treatment that compensates for chronic dietary stress.

### Stress-Induced Ich in Blackwater Setups

Ich (*Ichthyophthirius multifiliis*) is the second common health issue, and it almost always shows up after a stressor — a temperature drop, a botched water change, a new aggressive tank mate, or shipping. The signature white spots are obvious, and uaru's deep-bodied form makes them very visible.

Treatment is standard but tricky in blackwater setups. Raise temperature to 86F to 88F to accelerate the parasite life cycle (uaru tolerate this well). Avoid copper-based medications if you have invertebrates or tannin-stained water that may interact with copper dosing — formaldehyde-malachite green combinations are the safer choice for blackwater tanks. Treat for the full life cycle (10 to 14 days even after spots disappear) to break the cycle. Better than treatment is prevention: stable temperature, slow acclimation of new fish, and quarantine of all new arrivals.

## Where to Buy & What to Look For

Uaru are not a chain-store fish. You will find them at specialty cichlid retailers, online importers like Wet Spot Tropical Fish or The Wet Spot, and occasionally at well-stocked local fish stores in larger metros. Wild-caught fish are common in the trade, and tank-bred fish (more forgiving of parameters) are slowly becoming more available.

### Inspecting for "Sunken Belly" and Clear Eyes at Your LFS

When you are looking at uaru in a store tank, the body condition tells you almost everything. A healthy uaru has a full, slightly rounded belly with no concavity behind the gills. A "sunken belly" — visible hollowing behind the pectoral fins — is a serious warning sign that often indicates internal parasites, malnutrition, or chronic stress. Do not buy these fish hoping to nurse them back; recovery rates are poor.

Eyes should be clear and bright with no cloudiness, and the eye-rim should show a hint of red even in juveniles. Check the head for any pitting or pinhole erosion (early HITH). Watch the fish for a minute — it should be alert, swimming with deliberate fin movements, and ideally interacting with tank mates. Clamped fins, hovering in a corner, or rapid gill movement (above 80 beats per minute) all indicate stress. If a group of 6 uaru in a store tank includes one that looks visibly off, the others may be incubating the same problem; consider waiting for the next shipment.

### Buyer Checklist

- [ ] Belly is full and rounded — no sunken concavity behind the gills
- [ ] Eyes clear and bright with red rim visible
- [ ] Head smooth — no pits, pinholes, or lateral-line erosion
- [ ] Body symmetrical — no spinal curvature or fin damage
- [ ] Active swimming with deliberate fin movement (not clamped)
- [ ] Gill rate calm — under 80 beats per minute at rest
- [ ] Feeding response when food enters the tank
- [ ] No white spots, fuzzy patches, or red streaking on body
- [ ] Confirm species — Uaru amphiacanthoides, not the rarer fernandezyepezi unless that is your goal
- [ ] Buy juveniles in a group of 5-6 if you want to let a pair form naturally

### Shipping Sensitivity: Why Local Pickup Is Preferred for Adults

Uaru ship reasonably well as juveniles up to about 4 inches, and most reputable online retailers will get them to you alive with proper acclimation. Adults are a different story. A 10-inch uaru is a heavily stressed animal in a shipping bag; deaths in transit are common, and even survivors often arrive with bacterial infections that show up in the second week.

If you are buying adults or sub-adults (6 inches and up), strongly prefer a local pickup over shipping. Many specialty cichlid stores will hold fish for a customer driving in from out of state. A six-hour drive home in a properly insulated cooler is significantly less stress for an adult uaru than a 24-hour overnight shipping trip. For juveniles, online ordering through a quality importer is fine — just plan for a careful drip acclimation and a quarantine period.

**Find a local fish store** — [Find stores near me](https://www.fishstores.org/near-me)

## Quick-Reference Cheat Sheet

| Stat                    | Value                 |
| ----------------------- | --------------------- |
| Adult size              | 10-12 in              |
| Lifespan                | 8-10 years            |
| Min tank (pair)         | 75 gal                |
| Min tank (group of 4-5) | 120-180 gal           |
| Temperature             | 82F-86F               |
| pH                      | 5.0-6.5               |
| Hardness                | 0-5 dGH               |
| Diet                    | 60-70% plant matter   |
| Group size              | Minimum 3, ideally 5+ |
| Difficulty              | Intermediate-Advanced |

Uaru reward keepers who come to them prepared. The species needs warm soft water, plenty of swimming room, a heavy-vegetable diet, and structured hardscape — not plants. Hit those requirements and you will get one of the most personable and intelligent large cichlids in the South American hobby, with parental behavior that rivals discus and a price tag that does not. Skip any of those requirements and uaru become the cautionary tale of "Poor Man's Discus" — unhappy, susceptible to HITH, and gone in two years instead of ten.

## Frequently Asked Questions

### How big do Uaru cichlids get?

Uaru typically reach 10 to 12 inches in a home aquarium. Because of their deep, disc-shaped bodies, they have significant mass, requiring a wide tank (at least 18 inches front-to-back) to turn comfortably as adults.

### Are Uaru aggressive?

No, Uaru are remarkably peaceful for large cichlids. They are social gentle giants that prefer the company of their own kind. Aggression is usually only seen during spawning or if the tank is severely overcrowded.

### Can Uaru live with Discus?

Yes, Uaru and Discus make excellent tank mates as they share identical water parameter requirements (high heat, low pH) and have similar shy temperaments. However, Uaru are much faster eaters, so ensure the Discus get their share.

### What do Uaru eat?

While they are omnivores, Uaru are heavily herbivorous. Their diet should consist of 60 to 70 percent vegetable matter, including blanched spinach, romaine lettuce, cucumber, and spirulina-based pellets to prevent digestive issues and HITH disease.

### Do Uaru need a heater?

Yes, Uaru are tropical fish from the Amazon basin and require stable temperatures between 82F and 86F. Dropping below 78F can lead to a suppressed immune system and increased susceptibility to parasites.

---
*Source: [FishStores.org](https://www.fishstores.org/species/uaru)*
*Last updated: April 26, 2026*