---
type: species
title: "Cat Shark Care Guide: Keeping the Coral Catshark & Bamboo Shark at Home"
slug: "cat-shark"
category: "saltwater"
scientificName: "Scyliorhinus canicula"
subcategory: "Shark"
lastUpdated: "2026-04-26"
readingTime: 12
url: https://www.fishstores.org/species/cat-shark
---

# Cat Shark Care Guide: Keeping the Coral Catshark & Bamboo Shark at Home

*Scyliorhinus canicula*

Learn how to keep a Cat Shark in your home aquarium. Expert tips on tank size (180+ gal), feeding, water flow, and choosing the right species.

## Species Overview

The cat shark is the gateway elasmobranch — the small, bottom-dwelling shark that convinces hobbyists they can keep a real shark at home, and the species most likely to humble them when they underestimate the footprint, filtration, and feeding discipline required. The name "cat shark" covers a sprawling family (Scyliorhinidae) of more than 160 species, but in the aquarium trade it almost always refers to one of two animals: the Coral Catshark (*Atelomycterus marmoratus*) from the Indo-Pacific, or the closely associated Brownbanded Bamboo Shark (*Chiloscyllium punctatum*), which is technically a hemiscylliid but sold under the same banner.

These are not miniature sharks. A Coral Catshark reaches 24-30 inches as an adult, lives 15-20 years in captivity, and spends most of its life cruising along the substrate or wedged into rockwork crevices. They are stunning animals — slender, leopard-spotted, with a long sinuous tail and the unmistakable cat-eye pupil that gives the family its name. They are also a 200-gallon, decade-plus commitment that asks more of an aquarist than almost any other ornamental species.

| Field       | Value                        |
| ----------- | ---------------------------- |
| Adult size  | 24-30 in (60-76 cm)          |
| Lifespan    | 15-20 years                  |
| Min tank    | 180 gallons (300+ preferred) |
| Temperament | Docile benthic predator      |
| Difficulty  | Advanced                     |
| Diet        | Carnivore (marine proteins)  |

### Identifying the Coral Catshark (*Atelomycterus marmoratus*) vs. Marbled Catshark

Two animals are routinely sold as "cat sharks" and the distinction matters because their adult size differs by a factor of two. The true Coral Catshark (*Atelomycterus marmoratus*) is the smaller of the two, topping out around 24 inches, with a slim cylindrical body, white background coloration, and dense black-and-white spotting that resembles spilled ink. It is the only catshark sold for the home hobby that genuinely fits in anything under 300 gallons.

The Marbled Catshark (*Atelomycterus macleayi*) and the closely related Brownbanded Bamboo Shark (*Chiloscyllium punctatum*) are routinely mislabeled in the trade. Bamboo sharks, in particular, hit 36-42 inches and need significantly larger systems. Before you commit, examine the snout shape and dorsal fin placement: catsharks have two dorsal fins set far back on the body and prominent nasal grooves; bamboo sharks have a more flattened head and barbels near the mouth. If you are looking specifically at the Coral Catshark, see our deeper [coral catshark](/species/coral-catshark) profile for that species' detail.

Either way, "cat shark" purchases should never be impulse buys. Get the scientific name from the seller in writing.

### Natural Habitat: Indo-Pacific Crevices and Reefs

In the wild, Coral Catsharks inhabit shallow reef flats and lagoons across the Indo-Pacific, from the Andaman Sea through Indonesia, the Philippines, Papua New Guinea, and northern Australia. They are obligate crevice-dwellers — animals that spend daylight hours wedged tightly into reef cracks, often with their bodies bent at acute angles, emerging only at dusk to hunt small crustaceans, mollusks, and sleeping reef fish.

This crevice behavior is not optional in captivity. A cat shark without overhanging rockwork or a deep cave structure will pace the front glass relentlessly, refuse food, and develop pressure sores on its snout. The single most common rookie mistake is treating a shark tank like a fish tank — open, decorated for human viewing — instead of building it around the animal's behavioral need to hide.

Wild specimens are also exposed to ocean-temperature water (74-80°F), constant tidal flow, and dissolved oxygen levels that sit near saturation. Replicating those conditions is the entire engineering challenge of a home shark system.

### Maximum Size (24-30 inches) and 15-20 Year Lifespan

A captive Coral Catshark hits roughly 24 inches at sexual maturity (around 4-5 years) and may push 28-30 inches over the next decade if the system supports it. Growth slows after maturity, but the animal continues to add girth and muscle mass for years. A 10-year-old cat shark in a properly sized tank looks visibly heavier than the slim juvenile you brought home.

Lifespan is the part most buyers underestimate. Fifteen to twenty years is not a marketing exaggeration — well-kept Coral Catsharks routinely outlast the marriages and apartments of their original owners. Plan for it the way you would plan for a parrot or a tortoise, not a fish.

## Water Parameters & Tank Requirements

Cat sharks are not parameter-fragile in the way that, say, an [Achilles tang](/species/achilles-tang) is. They tolerate small swings in pH and salinity better than most reef fish. What they do not tolerate is nitrate accumulation, low dissolved oxygen, and the slow degradation of water quality that comes from undersized filtration on an oversized animal.

### Minimum Tank Size: Why a 180-Gallon Wide or 300-Gallon Vat is Essential

The advertised 180-gallon minimum is the absolute floor, and it only works for a single juvenile-to-young-adult Coral Catshark in a "footprint-focused" build — a tank that is at least 6 feet long and 30 inches deep front-to-back. A 180-gallon "tall" with a 4-foot footprint is unsuitable. Sharks are horizontal animals, and a tank that lets them turn around without their nose hitting glass is non-negotiable. They will repeatedly bump the front pane otherwise, abrading their rostrum and inviting infection.

A 300-gallon system is the realistic target for a long-term home, and a great many serious shark keepers move to indoor stock-tank "ponds" — 8-foot fiberglass or polyethylene vats holding 500-1000 gallons — once their animal hits the 24-inch mark. Those builds give the shark genuine swimming room and let the keeper work on the system without reaching across delicate rockwork.

> **Tall tanks are not shark tanks**
>
> Vertical volume is irrelevant to a benthic shark. A 240-gallon "tall" with a 4-foot footprint is dramatically worse for a cat shark than a 180-gallon "long" with a 6-foot footprint. Always size by length and width, never by gallons. If a tank cannot accommodate the adult's full body length plus a 90-degree turn, it cannot house a cat shark long-term.

### Temperature (72-78°F) and High Dissolved Oxygen Needs

Aim for a stable 74-77°F. Cat sharks do not tolerate the warmer end of the reef-fish range (80°F+) for sustained periods because warm saltwater holds significantly less dissolved oxygen, and elasmobranchs have higher oxygen demands than most teleosts (bony fish). Their gill physiology is relatively inefficient, and a chronically under-oxygenated shark develops rapid gill ventilation, lethargy, and eventually organ damage.

A chiller is mandatory in most home environments. Even in cool climates, the heat dump from large skimmers, return pumps, and lighting will push a closed system 6-8°F above ambient. A 1/4 HP titanium chiller plumbed inline is the entry point for any tank over 200 gallons.

For dissolved oxygen, run two methods in parallel: aggressive surface agitation (powerful return outlets aimed at the surface, plus dedicated wavemakers) and a venturi protein skimmer rated for 2-3x your actual water volume. Targeting 6-7 mg/L of dissolved oxygen at all times is the goal.

### Filtration: Oversized Protein Skimmers and Mechanical "Shark Rollers"

Cat sharks are messy eaters and high-bioload animals. A filtration system rated for "300 gallons" by a manufacturer optimistic about reef-tank loading will buckle under a single 24-inch shark. Oversize everything by at least 100%.

Three components form the spine of any working shark filtration system. First, a recirculating protein skimmer rated for at least 2x your display volume — a single 24-inch shark in a 300-gallon system needs a skimmer marketed for 500-600 gallons. Second, a fluidized bed or large canister housing biological media to handle the ammonia and nitrite the skimmer cannot touch. Third, a "shark roller" or fleece filter that mechanically captures the heavy particulate waste these animals produce. Filter socks clog within hours; an automated fleece roller is worth its considerable price for the labor savings alone.

Keep nitrates below 20 ppm. Cat sharks tolerate 20-40 ppm in the short term but show clear long-term effects — color fading, lethargy, and in females, abnormal egg-case production — when nitrates sit chronically above 25 ppm. Large weekly water changes (15-20%) are routine in shark systems, not optional.

### Substrate Choice: Fine Sand to Prevent Belly Abrasions

This is one parameter you cannot afford to get wrong. Cat sharks spend the vast majority of their lives in direct contact with the substrate, dragging their belly and ventral fins across it as they cruise. Crushed coral, aragonite gravel, or any sharp-edged substrate will, over months, abrade the shark's belly and create open wounds that develop secondary bacterial infections (the "red belly" syndrome you will read about on shark forums).

Use only ultra-fine, smooth, sugar-grade aragonite sand at a depth of 1.5-2 inches. The grain size should feel like flour between your fingers, not gritty. Avoid live sand products that include coarser shell fragments. If you are repurposing a reef tank with crushed coral, swap it out before the shark goes in — not after.

> **Bare-bottom tanks are worse, not better**
>
> Hobbyists sometimes assume a bare-bottom tank avoids the abrasion problem entirely. It does not. Bare glass is even harder than sand and offers zero traction for the shark to push against when accelerating. The result is the same belly damage plus disorientation. Use fine sand. There is no acceptable shortcut here.

## Diet & Feeding

Cat sharks are obligate carnivores with surprisingly specific nutritional requirements. The default "frozen silversides and a vitamin once a week" approach is what kills most captive elasmobranchs over the 5-10 year mark — slowly, through cumulative deficiencies rather than acute crisis.

### Target Feeding: Using Feeding Tongs for Shrimp, Scallops, and Squid

Always feed with long stainless-steel tongs. Cat sharks have a moderate but real bite force and very poor depth perception when food is in the water column — they will lunge at fingers, fish nets, and acrylic siphons that look vaguely food-shaped. Tongs let you place food directly in front of the shark's mouth, monitor exactly how much each animal eats, and prevent sneaky tank mates from stealing meals.

The dietary core is a rotation of raw, marine-grade proteins: peeled shrimp (heads on for the chitin), bay scallops, raw squid rings, krill, mussel meat, and silversides. Avoid freshwater fish like tilapia or feeder goldfish entirely — they contain thiaminase that degrades the shark's vitamin B1 and induces neurological symptoms over months of feeding. Marine fish fillets only.

Cut food to a size the shark can swallow whole, generally 1-2 inches per piece for a young adult. Feed three to four times per week, never daily. Overfeeding is the second-fastest way to wreck water quality (after underfiltration).

### Vitamin Supplementation (Mazuri Shark Tabs) and Iodine Importance

This is the part most keepers neglect until their shark develops a goiter. Captive elasmobranchs cannot extract enough iodine, vitamin C, and vitamin E from frozen seafood — the freezing process destroys most of the natural vitamin content. Without supplementation, they develop hypothyroid goiters (a visible swelling at the throat), spinal deformities, and reproductive failure.

The standard protocol is Mazuri Shark and Ray Tablets (or equivalent), inserted into a piece of squid or scallop and fed once a week. Dose by body weight per the manufacturer's chart. Supplement separately with a marine-grade iodide solution dosed to the system, targeting natural seawater levels (0.06 ppm).

Soak food in a marine vitamin liquid (Selcon, VitaChem, or similar) for 5-10 minutes before feeding. This is the single most impactful thing you can do for long-term shark health, and it costs almost nothing.

### Juvenile vs. Adult Feeding Schedules

Newly hatched pups and juveniles under 12 inches feed every other day on small pieces of soft, gut-loaded shrimp and chopped squid. Their stomachs are small and they grow quickly during the first year. Adults (above 18 inches) shift to three feedings per week, with one fast day in between to mimic natural feeding rhythms — wild cat sharks do not eat every day, and continuous daily feeding in captivity correlates with fatty-liver disease and shortened lifespan.

If your shark refuses food for more than 5-7 days, check water parameters first (especially nitrates, oxygen, and temperature), then check for tank mate harassment, and only then consider illness. A healthy cat shark in a stable system eats reliably and visibly.

## Tank Mates & Compatibility

The tank-mate question for cat sharks has a simple framing: anything small enough to be swallowed will eventually be swallowed, and anything aggressive enough to nip will eventually do real damage to the shark's eyes or fins. The surviving compatible list is shorter than newcomers expect.

### Reef Safe Status: Why They Are "Coral Safe" but Not "Invert Safe"

Cat sharks ignore corals entirely — they neither eat them nor disturb them in the way that, say, large angelfish nip at SPS polyps. In that narrow sense they are "coral safe." However, their large body, active swimming pattern, and tendency to wedge into rockwork at rest mean they will inevitably knock over unsecured coral frags. Glue or epoxy every coral to the rockwork. Frag plugs sitting loose in a sand bed are doomed.

They are categorically not invert safe. Anything in the size range of an [emerald crab](/species/emerald-crab), [peppermint shrimp](/species/peppermint-shrimp), [skunk cleaner shrimp](/species/skunk-cleaner-shrimp), or small hermit will be hunted and consumed within weeks. Even larger sally-lightfoot crabs and decorator crabs are at risk. If you are planning a clean-up crew strategy, look at our [saltwater fish](/guides/saltwater-fish) guide for size-appropriate options — but understand that most CUC species you would normally rely on are off-limits in a shark system. You will be doing more manual maintenance than a typical reef.

### Ideal Large Fish Companions (Tangs, Large Angels, Groupers)

The compatible fish list is built around three criteria: too large to swallow (above 6 inches body length), not aggressive enough to harass the shark, and tolerant of the cat shark's specific water parameters. Top picks include the [yellow tang](/species/yellow-tang), [naso tang](/species/naso-tang), [purple tang](/species/purple-tang), [emperor angelfish](/species/emperor-angelfish), and [koran angelfish](/species/koran-angelfish). Larger wrasses like the [melanurus wrasse](/species/melanurus-wrasse) and adult groupers also do well, as do peaceful schools of [blue-green chromis](/species/blue-green-chromis) (though some chromis losses to nighttime predation are inevitable and should be planned for).

Avoid stocking fish smaller than the shark's mouth gape (roughly 2-3 inches at adulthood). A [banggai cardinalfish](/species/banggai-cardinalfish) or [neon goby](/species/neon-goby) will look like a snack within a week.

### Species to Avoid: Triggers and Puffers (Fin Nippers)

The list of species that will cause direct damage to a cat shark is short but absolute. Triggerfish — including the [clown triggerfish](/species/clown-triggerfish), [niger triggerfish](/species/niger-triggerfish), [picasso triggerfish](/species/picasso-triggerfish), and [queen triggerfish](/species/queen-triggerfish) — will bite shark fins and eyes, especially while the shark is at rest in a crevice. Puffers ([porcupine pufferfish](/species/porcupine-pufferfish), [longhorn cowfish](/species/longhorn-cowfish), [yellow boxfish](/species/yellow-boxfish)) are equally problematic and additionally release toxins under stress that can crash a closed system.

Other absolute exclusions: large moray eels (territorial competition over crevices), other shark species (territorial, even within Scyliorhinidae), and any large predatory groupers that exceed the cat shark's own size.

## Breeding: From Egg Case to Pup

Cat sharks are oviparous — they lay eggs rather than bearing live young — and breeding them in captivity is more achievable than most hobbyists realize. A sexually mature pair (around 3-4 years old) in a properly sized system will reproduce regularly, sometimes producing egg cases every two to three weeks during peak season.

### Understanding "Mermaid's Purses" and Incubation Periods

The egg case is the famous "mermaid's purse" — a leathery, rectangular pouch with long curling tendrils at each corner that the female uses to anchor the case to rockwork or substrate. A single Coral Catshark egg case is roughly 2 inches long, dark brown when fresh and translucent enough that you can backlight it after a few weeks to watch the developing embryo (a process called "candling" that aquarists use to monitor viability).

Incubation runs roughly 7-9 months at 76°F, slightly faster in warmer water and slower in cooler. The yolk sac sustains the embryo throughout development; the pup hatches fully formed at about 4 inches, immediately able to swim and hunt. Move egg cases to a separate hatching container with gentle flow as soon as you spot them — adult cat sharks will occasionally consume their own eggs, and in-display hatchings make pup survival nearly impossible.

### Raising Pups: Small Nursery Tanks and First Foods

Hatchling cat sharks need a nursery system of 30-40 gallons with the same water parameters as the parent display, fine sand, and several small caves. They are not ready for full-sized prey items. Start them on enriched live brine shrimp, mysis, and small chopped pieces of raw shrimp. Move to chopped squid and scallop within the first month.

Pups grow rapidly during their first year — expect them to triple in length — and need to move to a 90-150 gallon grow-out tank by month four. They are not ready to integrate into a full adult display until 12-15 inches.

## Common Health Issues

Most cat shark health problems trace back to two root causes: chronic nutritional deficiency and substrate or rockwork injuries that turn septic. Both are entirely preventable with disciplined husbandry.

### Goiters and Iodine Deficiency

A goiter presents as a visible swelling under the throat — a soft, rounded bulge between the gills and the lower jaw. By the time it is visually obvious, the shark has been iodine-deficient for months. The treatment is to immediately begin or increase iodide dosing (target 0.06 ppm) and to start vitamin-soaking every meal. Mild goiters regress over 6-12 weeks of corrected diet. Severe goiters compress the throat and esophagus and may require veterinary intervention.

Prevention is trivial: weekly Mazuri Shark Tablets, marine-grade iodide dosing, and vitamin-soaked food. Skipping these because "the shark looks fine" is the most common path to a goiter at year three or four.

### Red Belly and Bacterial Infections from Rough Substrate

"Red belly" is the catch-all hobbyist term for ventral abrasions that have become infected. The progression is consistent: coarse substrate or a bare bottom abrades the white belly skin, opportunistic bacteria colonize the wound, and within weeks a red, raw, swollen patch develops. Untreated, it spreads and becomes systemic.

Fix the substrate first — if your sand is anything coarser than sugar-grade, replace it. Then quarantine the shark in a hospital system if you can manage one (a difficult ask for an animal this size; most keepers treat in-display) and dose a marine-safe broad-spectrum antibiotic per veterinary consultation. Maintain immaculate water quality during recovery; nitrates above 20 ppm meaningfully slow healing.

> **Stress is the underlying disease**
>
> Both goiters and red belly almost always have a stress component — undersized tank, aggressive tank mates, inadequate hiding spaces, or chronic low oxygen. Fixing the immediate issue (iodine, antibiotic) without fixing the underlying stressor leads to recurrence within a year. The system is the medicine.

## Local Store Transport Protocol: Moving a 2-Foot Shark Safely

Most aquarists buy their cat shark from a specialty local fish store rather than mail-order, both because elasmobranch shipping is high-risk and because reputable stores will not ship them. That means you are picking up a 12-24 inch animal in person and driving it home — and the way you handle that 1-3 hour transport window determines whether the shark settles into your system over a week or crashes within 48 hours from pH shock.

The standard fish-bag-in-styrofoam approach does not scale to a 2-foot shark. Ask the store to bag the animal in a heavy-gauge double bag with at least 3 gallons of source water and pure oxygen (not just air) inflating the headspace. Better stores will bag in a long, narrow "shark sleeve" bag designed to keep the animal straight. If the trip exceeds 90 minutes, transport in an insulated 5-gallon cooler with a battery-powered air stone and a small heater pack to hold temperature.

Drive carefully — sharp braking and sharp turns slosh the bag and stress the animal. Keep the cooler dark; covering it with a towel reduces visual stress significantly. On arrival, do not float-acclimate. Drip-acclimate over 90-120 minutes at a rate of roughly 4 drops per second from your display sump into the transport bag. Cat sharks tolerate small specific gravity changes, but pH shock from a sudden swap is the leading cause of post-transport mortality. Test the bag pH every 20 minutes during acclimation and only transfer the shark to the display when bag and tank pH are within 0.1 units of each other.

> **Build a relationship with your LFS before you commit**
>
> A reputable saltwater specialist will refuse to sell you a cat shark on impulse. They should ask about your tank size, filtration, and existing livestock — and they should be willing to hold the animal for 1-2 weeks while you confirm your system is stable. If the store is happy to put a 24-inch shark into a sealed bag and send you out the door without questions, walk away. The right store is your single most valuable resource over the next 15 years.

## Where to Buy & What to Look For

A cat shark is one of the few aquarium purchases where source quality matters more than price. A captive-bred Coral Catshark from a respected breeder costs 2-3x more than a wild-caught import, and is worth every additional dollar in survivorship and long-term health.

### Sourcing Captive-Bred vs. Wild-Caught

Captive-bred cat sharks (often abbreviated "CB" or "F1/F2" in trade listings) hatch in aquaria, eat prepared foods from day one, and arrive without parasite loads or capture trauma. They are the only sensible starting point for a first-time shark keeper. Several reputable US and European breeders work with Coral Catsharks specifically, and a serious local store can usually source from them with 4-8 weeks of lead time.

Wild-caught animals enter the trade through Indonesian and Filipino exporters, often after being held in inadequate conditions for weeks before they reach a US distributor. They arrive stressed, frequently with internal parasites, and many refuse to eat in captivity at all. Even successful wild-caught keepers report 6-12 months of intensive husbandry before the animal "settles in." Captive-bred is worth the wait and the price.

### The "Eye Test": Checking for Alertness and Clear Skin

Before you commit, watch the animal in its store tank for at least 15 minutes. A healthy cat shark rests in a crevice or against rockwork but reacts visibly to movement near the tank — head turns, fin twitches, alert eyes tracking. A shark that lies flat with cloudy eyes, ragged fins, or an obviously sunken belly is in trouble.

Specifically check for: clear, bright eyes (no cloudiness or graying); intact fin edges with no fraying or red streaks; smooth, unbroken belly skin (look for any reddish patches or open wounds); a full-looking abdomen (sunken bellies indicate long-term starvation); and active gill ventilation that is steady rather than rapid or labored. Ask the store to feed the animal in front of you. A healthy cat shark eats willingly and does not need to be coaxed.

### Buyer Checklist

- [ ] Captive-bred (CB) or F1/F2 specimen, not wild-caught import
- [ ] Clear, bright eyes with no cloudiness
- [ ] Intact dorsal and tail fin edges, no fraying
- [ ] Smooth white belly skin, no red patches or abrasions
- [ ] Full abdomen, not sunken or hollow-looking
- [ ] Steady gill ventilation, not rapid or gasping
- [ ] Eats raw shrimp from tongs in front of you
- [ ] Scientific name confirmed in writing on receipt
- [ ] Store willing to hold for 1-2 weeks while you finalize system

## Quick-Reference Cheat Sheet

| Parameter        | Target                       | Notes                                   |
| ---------------- | ---------------------------- | --------------------------------------- |
| Adult size       | 24-30 in                     | Coral Catshark; bamboo sharks larger    |
| Lifespan         | 15-20 years                  | Long-term commitment                    |
| Minimum tank     | 180 gallons                  | 300+ gal preferred; 6 ft length minimum |
| Tank dimensions  | 72 x 30 in footprint         | Width matters more than height          |
| Temperature      | 74-77 F                      | Chiller mandatory in most homes         |
| Salinity         | 1.024-1.026 SG               | Stable; avoid swings                    |
| pH               | 8.1-8.4                      | Stable preferred over precise           |
| Nitrate          | Below 20 ppm                 | Long-term health depends on it          |
| Dissolved oxygen | 6-7 mg/L                     | Aggressive surface agitation + skimmer  |
| Substrate        | Sugar-grade aragonite        | 1.5-2 in depth; never coarse            |
| Filtration       | 2x display volume rated      | Skimmer + biological + fleece roller    |
| Diet             | Marine proteins 3-4x/week    | Vitamin-soaked; weekly Mazuri tabs      |
| Reef safe        | Coral safe, not invert safe  | Will eat shrimp, crabs, snails          |
| Compatible mates | Large tangs, angels, wrasses | Avoid triggers and puffers              |

A cat shark is the single most demanding ornamental fish most aquarists will ever consider keeping, and also one of the most rewarding when the system is built around the animal rather than the other way around. The 180-gallon minimum is non-negotiable, the 15-year commitment is real, and the long-term success rate among casual keepers is brutal. But for the aquarist who plans the system, sources the animal carefully, and treats every meal as a small act of veterinary preventive care, a Coral Catshark settles in for two decades of slow-motion grace along the substrate. Few species reward discipline this generously.

## Frequently Asked Questions

### How big of a tank does a cat shark need?

A minimum of 180 gallons is required for a single Coral Catshark, but a 300-gallon footprint-focused tank or indoor pond is preferred. The tank must be wide enough (at least 30 inches) for the shark to turn around comfortably without hitting the glass.

### Are cat sharks reef safe?

They are generally safe with corals, as they do not eat them. However, they are not invert safe and will quickly consume ornamental shrimp, crabs, and small snails. Their large size and movement can also accidentally knock over unsecured coral frags.

### What do pet cat sharks eat?

They require a carnivorous diet of high-quality marine proteins. Feed them chunks of raw shrimp, squid, scallops, and silversides. It is vital to soak food in marine vitamins to prevent nutritional deficiencies common in captive elasmobranchs.

### Can you keep a cat shark with other fish?

Yes, provided the tank mates are too large to be swallowed and are not aggressive nippers. Large Tangs, Rabbitfish, and larger Angelfish make excellent companions. Avoid Puffers or Triggerfish, as they may bite the shark fins or eyes.

### How long do cat sharks live in captivity?

With proper filtration and a controlled diet, cat sharks can live for 15 to 20 years. Potential owners should view them as a long-term commitment similar to a dog or cat.

---
*Source: [FishStores.org](https://www.fishstores.org/species/cat-shark)*
*Last updated: April 26, 2026*