---
type: guide
title: "Betta Fish: Complete Care Guide, Types & Tank Setup for Beginners"
slug: "betta-fish"
category: "freshwater"
lastUpdated: "2026-03-17"
readingTime: 13
url: https://www.fishstores.org/guides/betta-fish
---

# Betta Fish: Complete Care Guide, Types & Tank Setup for Beginners

Learn how to care for betta fish — tank size, water parameters, feeding, fin types, and where to buy healthy bettas near you.

## What Is a Betta Fish?

Betta fish (*Betta splendens*) are small, vividly colored freshwater fish native to Southeast Asia. They belong to the family Osphronemidae — the gouramis — and are classified as labyrinth fish, meaning they possess a specialized organ that lets them breathe atmospheric air directly from the surface. That adaptation is the reason bettas can survive in oxygen-poor water, but it is not an excuse to keep them in a tiny cup.

With proper care, bettas are hardy, personable fish that recognize their owners, respond to feeding cues, and display genuinely interesting behavior. They are the single most popular freshwater aquarium fish in North America for good reason — but much of the conventional wisdom around their care is wrong.

| Stat            | Value               |
| --------------- | ------------------- |
| Scientific name | Betta splendens     |
| Adult size      | 2.5–3 in (6–7 cm)   |
| Lifespan        | 2–4 years (up to 5) |
| Min tank size   | 5 gallons           |
| Temperament     | Semi-aggressive     |
| Difficulty      | Beginner            |

### Natural Habitat and Origin

Wild *Betta splendens* are found throughout the Mekong River basin in Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam. They inhabit shallow rice paddies, floodplains, slow-moving streams, and stagnant ponds — environments that are warm, acidic, and heavily vegetated. Water depths in these habitats are often just a few inches during the dry season, but the total surface area is vast. The labyrinth organ evolved in these oxygen-depleted waters, allowing bettas to gulp air at the surface when dissolved oxygen drops too low.

Wild bettas look almost nothing like the fish you see in pet stores. They are typically dull brown or green with short fins. The spectacular colors and flowing finnage of domestic bettas are the result of decades of selective breeding, much of it driven by the ornamental fish trade in Thailand and the show standards maintained by organizations like the International Betta Congress (IBC).

### Why Bettas Are the Number-One Beginner Freshwater Fish

Three traits make bettas ideal first fish. First, their labyrinth organ provides a margin of error on dissolved oxygen — they can survive brief lapses in filtration that would kill other species. Second, they are small enough to thrive in a 5- to 10-gallon tank, making them affordable to house properly. Third, their bold personalities and responsiveness to interaction give new fishkeepers a rewarding experience from day one.

That said, "beginner-friendly" does not mean "zero maintenance." Bettas still need heated, filtered, cycled water and consistent feeding. They are forgiving of small mistakes, not neglect.

### Lifespan and What to Realistically Expect

In well-maintained tanks, bettas live 2–4 years on average. Exceptional individuals reach 5 years. The catch: most bettas sold at chain pet stores are already 6–12 months old by the time they reach the shelf. Their elaborate finnage takes months to develop, so retailers wait until males are visually impressive before selling them. That means your betta's practical remaining lifespan at purchase is often closer to 1.5–3 years.

Buying from a breeder or a reputable local fish store that sources young stock can add meaningful time. Fish from a [quality local store](/near-me) are often younger, healthier, and less stressed than those that have spent weeks in a supply chain.

## Betta Fish Types and Varieties

The modern betta market offers dozens of distinct tail types and color forms. Understanding the differences helps you pick a fish that matches your aesthetic preferences and — importantly — your willingness to maintain fin health. Longer-finned varieties are more prone to fin damage and require calmer water flow.

### Tail Types Explained

The IBC recognizes several tail classifications, but six dominate the retail market:

- **Veiltail (VT):** The most common and least expensive variety. Long, drooping caudal fin that flows downward. Hardy and widely available. A solid first betta.
- **Halfmoon (HM):** Caudal fin spreads to a full 180-degree half-circle when flared. Dramatic but more susceptible to fin tearing. Needs decor with no sharp edges.
- **Crowntail (CT):** Ray extensions extend beyond the webbing, creating a spiky, crown-like appearance. Striking but delicate — the extended rays are easily damaged.
- **Plakat (PK):** Short-finned variety that most closely resembles wild *Betta splendens*. More active, faster, and less prone to fin problems. Excellent for beginners who want a robust fish.
- **Doubletail (DT):** Caudal fin splits into two distinct lobes. Often paired with a wider dorsal fin. Can have spinal issues due to the gene that produces the split tail.
- **Delta / Super Delta:** Caudal fin forms a triangle that extends past 90 degrees but less than 180. A middle ground between veiltail and halfmoon in both aesthetics and care difficulty.

### Color Morphs and Patterns

Betta color genetics are complex, but common retail categories include:

- **Solid:** Single uniform color — red, blue, black, white, or turquoise. Clean solids are selectively bred and can command higher prices.
- **Koi:** Marbled red, white, and black pattern resembling koi carp. Highly variable — the marble gene means colors shift over the fish's life.
- **Galaxy (Nemo Koi):** A koi variant with additional iridescent blue or purple overlays.
- **Mustard Gas:** Dark body (typically blue or green) with contrasting yellow or orange fins.
- **Marble:** Irregular, splotchy pattern that changes over time due to the transposon (jumping gene) responsible for the trait.
- **Butterfly:** Body color extends partway into the fins, then transitions to a distinct band of white or clear at the fin edges.

### Male vs. Female Bettas — Differences at a Glance

| Trait        | Male                                       | Female                                        |
| ------------ | ------------------------------------------ | --------------------------------------------- |
| Fin length   | Long, flowing fins (in domestic varieties) | Short, compact fins                           |
| Body size    | Slightly larger body; 2.5–3 in             | Slightly smaller; 2–2.5 in                    |
| Coloration   | Vivid, intense colors                      | Duller, though some are colorful              |
| Aggression   | Highly aggressive to other males           | Less aggressive; can coexist in groups        |
| Ovipositor   | Absent                                     | Visible white egg spot near ventral fins      |
| Bubble nests | Builds bubble nests regularly              | Rarely builds nests                           |
| Housing      | Must be kept alone or with non-betta mates | Can form sorority tanks (5+ females, 20+ gal) |

*Male vs. female betta comparison — per Seriously Fish species profile*

Female bettas can sometimes be kept together in a "sorority tank" — a group of five or more females in a tank of at least 20 gallons with heavy planting and line-of-sight breaks. Sororities require careful monitoring and are not recommended for beginners. Aggression can escalate suddenly, and failed sororities often result in injuries or death.

### Giant Bettas and Rare/Premium Varieties

Giant bettas (*Betta splendens* selectively bred for size) reach 3–5 inches and require a minimum 10-gallon tank. They are typically plakat or halfmoon in fin type and cost $30–$80 depending on color and lineage. Dumbo (elephant ear) bettas feature oversized pectoral fins that resemble floppy ears. Both varieties are increasingly available at specialty local fish stores and online breeders.

## Betta Fish Care Requirements

Good betta care is straightforward: stable, warm, filtered water in an appropriately sized tank. Most health problems trace back to one or more of these fundamentals being neglected.

### Minimum Tank Size and Why Bowls Fail

> **Don't keep a betta in a bowl or vase**
>
> Bowls under 5 gallons lack the water volume to maintain stable parameters. Ammonia accumulates rapidly, temperature swings with room conditions, and there is no space for a filter or heater. Bettas in bowls rarely live past a year. A 5-gallon tank is the absolute minimum; a 10-gallon is better and costs only marginally more.

A 5-gallon tank is the minimum for a single betta. Ten gallons is the recommended starting point — the extra volume provides a much larger buffer against water quality swings and gives you room to add compatible tank mates later. Bettas are active fish that patrol territory, flare at stimuli, and explore. They use the space.

### Water Parameters

### Betta Fish Water Parameters

| Parameter   | Target            | Notes                                                   |
| ----------- | ----------------- | ------------------------------------------------------- |
| Temperature | 76–82°F (24–28°C) | Heater required — room temp is not enough               |
| pH          | 6.5–7.5           | Consistency matters more than hitting a specific number |
| Ammonia     | 0 ppm             | Any detectable level is toxic                           |
| Nitrite     | 0 ppm             | Indicates incomplete cycling                            |
| Nitrate     | \<20 ppm          | Control with weekly water changes                       |
| GH          | 3–12 dGH          | Bettas tolerate a wide range                            |
| KH          | 3–8 dKH           | Provides pH buffering stability                         |

Temperature is the most critical parameter for betta health. Below 76°F, their metabolism slows, immune function weakens, and they become lethargic. Above 84°F, oxygen levels drop and stress increases. A submersible adjustable heater rated for your tank size is non-negotiable — even in warm climates, nighttime temperature drops can push unheated tanks out of range. Use the [heater size calculator](/tools/heater-size) to match wattage to your tank volume.

Test water weekly with a liquid test kit (API Freshwater Master Test Kit is the standard). Strip tests are less accurate but better than nothing.

### Filtration — Low-Flow Options and Why It Matters

Bettas need filtration, but they cannot tolerate strong currents. Their long fins create drag, and fighting a powerful filter output exhausts them. Choose a filter rated for your tank size, then baffle the output if necessary. Good low-flow options include:

- **Sponge filters:** Gentle, effective biological filtration. Ideal for betta tanks. Powered by an air pump.
- **Hang-on-back (HOB) with baffled output:** Effective but may need a pre-filter sponge over the intake to prevent fin damage, plus a baffle (cut water bottle or filter sponge) over the output to reduce flow.
- **Small internal filters:** Many are designed for nano tanks and have adjustable flow.

The goal is enough flow to cycle water through biological media without creating visible surface disturbance across the entire tank.

### Lighting and Planted Tank Benefits

Bettas do not have demanding lighting needs, but a consistent light-dark cycle (8–10 hours on, 14–16 hours off via a timer) supports natural behavior. Avoid leaving lights on 24/7 — bettas need darkness to rest.

Live plants benefit betta tanks significantly. They absorb nitrate, provide resting spots near the surface (bettas love floating plants and broad leaves), break up line-of-sight to reduce stress, and create a more natural environment. Low-light species like java fern, anubias, java moss, and Amazon frogbit are excellent choices that require no CO2 injection or specialized substrates.

## Feeding Your Betta Fish

Bettas are carnivores. In the wild, *Betta splendens* feed on insect larvae, small crustaceans, and zooplankton at the water surface. Captive diets should reflect this protein-rich, meat-based natural diet.

### What Bettas Eat in the Wild vs. Captivity

Wild bettas subsist almost entirely on mosquito larvae, water fleas (daphnia), and other small invertebrates. They are surface and mid-water feeders with upturned mouths designed to grab prey at or near the surface. This means floating or slow-sinking foods are ideal in captivity.

### Best Betta Foods

- **Betta-specific pellets:** The dietary foundation. Choose pellets with whole fish or insect meal as the first ingredient and a protein content of 40% or higher. Feed 2–4 pellets twice daily depending on pellet size.
- **Frozen bloodworms:** Excellent supplemental food, 2–3 times per week. Thaw a small portion in tank water before feeding.
- **Frozen brine shrimp:** Another good supplement. Lower in protein than bloodworms but adds variety.
- **Freeze-dried daphnia:** Useful for fiber and digestive health. Soak briefly before feeding to prevent bloating.

Avoid generic tropical flakes — most are plant-heavy and do not meet bettas' protein needs. Also avoid overreliance on freeze-dried foods without soaking, as they expand in the stomach and cause constipation.

### Feeding Schedule and Portion Size — Beginner Mistakes

> **Overfeeding is the number-one betta killer after poor water quality**
>
> A betta's stomach is roughly the size of its eye. Two to four pellets twice daily is a full meal. Excess food rots on the substrate, spikes ammonia, and causes bloating and swim bladder problems. If your betta's belly looks distended, you are feeding too much. Fast for one day per week to aid digestion.

A reliable schedule: feed a small portion of pellets in the morning and evening, six days a week. On two or three of those days, replace one pellet feeding with frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp. Skip feeding entirely one day per week. Remove any uneaten food after two minutes.

## Betta Fish Tank Setup Step-by-Step

Setting up a betta tank correctly the first time prevents the most common problems beginners face. Here is the equipment you need and the process to follow.

### Equipment Checklist

### Betta Tank Setup — Equipment List

- [ ] Tank: 5-gallon minimum, 10-gallon recommended. Glass or acrylic with a lid (bettas jump).
- [ ] Heater: Submersible, adjustable, rated for your tank size. A 25W heater covers most 5-gallon tanks; 50W for 10-gallon.
- [ ] Filter: Sponge filter or baffled HOB with adjustable flow. Low current is essential.
- [ ] Thermometer: Stick-on or digital to verify heater accuracy. Do not rely on the heater dial alone.
- [ ] Water conditioner: Dechlorinator (Seachem Prime or equivalent) to treat tap water.
- [ ] Substrate: Fine gravel or sand, 1–2 inches deep. Use the substrate depth calculator to determine how much you need.
- [ ] Hiding spots: Driftwood, smooth rocks, or ceramic caves. Avoid sharp plastic decorations that tear fins.
- [ ] Live or silk plants: Real plants are best; silk is acceptable. Never use hard plastic plants with long-finned bettas.
- [ ] Lid or cover: Bettas are jumpers. Any gap large enough for the fish to fit through needs to be covered.
- [ ] Liquid test kit: API Freshwater Master Test Kit for monitoring ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.

Use our [substrate depth calculator](/tools/substrate-depth) to figure out exactly how much gravel or sand you need for your tank dimensions.

### Cycling the Tank Before Adding Your Betta

> **The nitrogen cycle is non-negotiable**
>
> Adding a betta to an uncycled tank exposes it to toxic ammonia and nitrite. The nitrogen cycle — the process by which beneficial bacteria colonize your filter and convert ammonia to nitrite, then nitrite to nitrate — takes 4–6 weeks to establish. There are no reliable shortcuts. A fish-in cycle is possible with daily water changes and careful monitoring, but a fishless cycle using pure ammonia is safer for the animal.

Fishless cycling steps:

1. Set up the tank with substrate, filter, heater, and decor. Fill with dechlorinated water. Set heater to 80°F.
2. Add a source of ammonia (pure ammonia drops or fish food left to decompose) to bring the ammonia reading to 2–4 ppm.
3. Test daily with a liquid kit. Over 2–4 weeks, you will see ammonia spike, then nitrite spike, then nitrate appear.
4. The cycle is complete when ammonia and nitrite both read 0 ppm within 24 hours of dosing ammonia, and nitrate is present.
5. Do a large water change (50–80%) to reduce nitrate before adding your betta.

### Safe Plants and Decorations

The golden rule for betta decor: if it can snag a pair of pantyhose dragged across it, it will tear betta fins. Run your finger along every edge and point. Sharp plastic plants are the worst offenders.

Safe options include java fern (attach to driftwood — do not bury the rhizome), anubias (same), java moss, Amazon sword, Amazon frogbit (floating), and water sprite. Driftwood, smooth river rocks, and ceramic hides all work well. Avoid painted decorations that can leach chemicals and rough-edged resin castles.

## Betta Fish Compatibility and Tank Mates

Bettas have a reputation as aggressive, solitary fish. That reputation is partly deserved — but with the right species and enough space, a community betta tank is absolutely possible.

### Why You Cannot Keep Two Male Bettas Together

Male *Betta splendens* are territorial and will fight other males on sight. This is not a behavior you can train out of them — it is hardwired. In the wild, the loser of a territorial dispute retreats. In an aquarium, there is nowhere to retreat, and the result is injury or death. No tank is large enough to safely house two males. Period.

### Compatible Community Fish

In a 10-gallon or larger tank, a single male betta can coexist with peaceful, non-flashy species that occupy different water columns. Good choices include:

| Tank Mate                             | Min Tank Size | Why It Works                                                    | Watch For                                                   |
| ------------------------------------- | ------------- | --------------------------------------------------------------- | ----------------------------------------------------------- |
| Corydoras catfish (pygmy or habrosus) | 10 gal        | Bottom-dwellers, peaceful, schooling                            | Need groups of 6+; soft substrate preferred                 |
| Nerite snails                         | 5 gal         | Algae cleaners, armored shell protects them                     | Need hard water for shell health; won't breed in freshwater |
| Ember tetras                          | 10 gal        | Tiny, dull-colored, mid-water schoolers                         | Keep in groups of 8+ to prevent fin-nipping                 |
| Harlequin rasboras                    | 15 gal        | Peaceful, mid-water, not flashy enough to trigger aggression    | Need groups of 6+; slightly larger tank preferred           |
| Amano shrimp                          | 10 gal        | Large enough not to be eaten, excellent algae grazers           | May still be harassed; provide plenty of hiding spots       |
| Mystery snails                        | 10 gal        | Peaceful, interesting behavior, large enough to avoid predation | Produce bioload; keep to 1–2 per 10 gallons                 |

*Compatible betta tank mates — always add tank mates first, then introduce the betta last*

Use the [compatibility checker](/tools/compatibility) to verify pairings before purchasing.

### Species to Always Avoid

Never house bettas with fin-nipping species (tiger barbs, serpae tetras), other labyrinth fish (gouramis), brightly colored or long-finned fish that bettas perceive as rivals (male guppies, male endlers), or aggressive cichlids of any kind. Goldfish are also incompatible — they require cooler water and produce far too much waste.

## Common Betta Fish Diseases and Health Signs

Healthy bettas are active, curious, and responsive to their environment. Clamped fins, lethargy, loss of appetite, color fading, or visible lesions all signal a problem. Early detection and treatment make the difference between recovery and loss.

### Fin Rot, Ich, and Velvet — Symptoms and Treatment

**Fin rot** is the most common betta ailment. Symptoms include ragged, receding, or darkened fin edges. Mild cases are caused by poor water quality — performing 25% daily water changes with dechlorinated water and maintaining 0 ammonia often resolves early fin rot without medication. Advanced cases with body involvement may require antibacterial treatment (kanamycin or erythromycin), per treatment protocols published in the Journal of Fish Diseases.

**Ich (white spot disease)** presents as small white granules covering the body and fins, like grains of salt. Raise the temperature to 86°F gradually (1 degree per hour) and treat with an ich-specific medication. The elevated temperature accelerates the parasite's life cycle, making it vulnerable to treatment faster.

**Velvet** appears as a fine gold or rust-colored dusting on the body, visible under a flashlight. It is caused by the parasite *Piscinoodinium* and is more difficult to spot than ich. Treatment involves raising temperature, dimming lights (the parasite is photosynthetic), and dosing a copper-based medication.

> **Warning**
>
> Copper-based medications kill invertebrates. If your tank contains snails or shrimp, move them to a separate container before dosing. Copper also binds to silicone sealant and substrate, making it difficult to remove completely.

### Swim Bladder Disorder and Overfeeding Link

Swim bladder disorder (SBD) causes bettas to float awkwardly, sink to the bottom, or swim sideways. The most common cause is constipation from overfeeding or a diet lacking fiber. Treatment: fast the fish for 2–3 days, then feed a small piece of blanched, deshelled pea (the fiber acts as a laxative). If symptoms persist after fasting, the cause may be bacterial, and antibiotic food may be needed.

Prevention is simple — do not overfeed, include frozen daphnia in the diet for fiber, and fast one day per week.

### How to Quarantine a Sick Betta

Set up a quarantine tank using a 2.5- to 5-gallon container with a heater and sponge filter. Use water from the main tank to reduce acclimation stress. Keep the quarantine tank bare-bottomed for easy cleaning and medication dosing. Treat the fish in quarantine rather than the display tank whenever possible — this protects beneficial bacteria in the main tank's filter and avoids exposing tank mates to unnecessary medication.

## Where to Buy Betta Fish

Where you buy your betta matters as much as how you care for it. A healthy fish from a reputable source has a dramatically better prognosis than a stressed, sick fish from a cup on a shelf.

### Online vs. Local Fish Store — Pros and Cons

| Factor                | Local Fish Store                             | Online Retailer                               |
| --------------------- | -------------------------------------------- | --------------------------------------------- |
| Inspect before buying | Yes — see the fish in person                 | No — photos may not match the actual fish     |
| Shipping stress       | None — you drive it home                     | 12–48 hours in a bag; cold/heat exposure risk |
| Variety               | Limited to current stock                     | Wider selection, especially rare varieties    |
| Price                 | Moderate; supports local business            | Varies; add $15–$40 for overnight shipping    |
| Expert advice         | Face-to-face guidance from experienced staff | Email/chat only, often generic                |
| Return/guarantee      | Varies by store; usually 1–7 day guarantees  | DOA guarantees common; live arrival only      |

*Buying bettas locally vs. online*

For most beginners, buying from a local fish store is the better choice. You can inspect the fish for health signs, avoid shipping stress, and build a relationship with knowledgeable staff who can help you troubleshoot problems down the line. Online purchasing makes sense for rare varieties or color morphs unavailable locally.

### What to Look for in a Healthy Betta at the Store

### 6 Signs of a Healthy Betta

- [ ] Active swimming and responsive to your presence — not lying on the bottom or floating listlessly at the surface
- [ ] Bright, vivid coloration with no faded patches, discoloration, or white spots
- [ ] Fins fully spread with no tears, holes, ragged edges, or clamped positioning
- [ ] Clear eyes — not cloudy, sunken, or bulging
- [ ] Smooth body with no visible lumps, sores, or pinecone-like raised scales (dropsy sign)
- [ ] Clean cup or tank water — excessive debris or dead fish in surrounding cups is a red flag for the entire stock

> **Ask the store when their betta shipment arrives**
>
> Bettas are freshest 1–2 days after a new shipment. Ask staff which day their bettas come in, then visit the next day for the best selection and healthiest fish. Fish that have been sitting in cups for weeks are more likely to have stress-related illness.

### Finding a Reputable Local Fish Store Near You

Independent fish stores consistently carry healthier, better-acclimated stock than big-box chain stores. Staff at a dedicated aquarium shop can answer specific questions about the bettas they sell — where they were bred, how old they are, and what they have been eating. Stores like [Optimum Aquarium in Kennesaw, Georgia](/georgia/kennesaw/optimum-aquarium), [Aquarium Shoppe in Springfield, Missouri](/missouri/springfield/aquarium-shoppe), and many others across the country specialize in healthy freshwater stock and offer the kind of expert guidance you will never get from a chain store shelf label.

If you are in [Tennessee](/tennessee) or any other state, use our store finder to locate an independent fish store near you.

**Find a local fish store with healthy bettas near you** — [Find stores near me](https://www.fishstores.org/near-me)

Inspect bettas in person before you buy. Local stores carry healthier, less stressed fish than big-box chains — and staff can answer your questions face-to-face.

## Printable Betta Fish Care Summary

### Betta Fish Care At-a-Glance

**Tank size:** 5-gallon minimum, 10-gallon recommended

**Temperature:** 76–82°F (24–28°C) — heater required

**pH:** 6.5–7.5

**Ammonia / Nitrite:** 0 ppm always

**Nitrate:** Below 20 ppm — weekly water changes

**Feeding:** 2–4 pellets, twice daily, 6 days/week. Supplement with frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp 2–3x/week. Fast one day.

**Filtration:** Low-flow sponge filter or baffled HOB

**Tank mates:** Corydoras, nerite snails, ember tetras, harlequin rasboras (10+ gallon tank only)

**Never do:** Keep in a bowl, skip the nitrogen cycle, house two males together, use sharp plastic plants, overfeed

**Water changes:** 25% weekly in a cycled tank; more frequently in smaller tanks or uncycled setups

## Frequently Asked Questions

### How big of a tank does a betta fish need?

A betta fish needs a minimum 5-gallon tank. Smaller containers cause rapid water quality decline and stress. A 10-gallon tank gives more stable parameters and room for compatible tank mates, making it the recommended choice for beginners.

### Can betta fish live with other fish?

Yes, with the right species. Good tank mates include corydoras catfish, nerite snails, ember tetras, and harlequin rasboras. Avoid fin-nipping species like tiger barbs and never house two male bettas together — they will fight.

### How long do betta fish live?

Betta fish typically live 2–4 years in captivity. With optimal water quality, a varied diet, and a properly sized tank, some bettas reach 5 years. Fish sold at pet stores are often already 6–12 months old at purchase.

### What do betta fish eat?

Bettas are carnivores. A quality betta-specific pellet should form the diet's base, supplemented 2–3 times per week with frozen or freeze-dried bloodworms, daphnia, or brine shrimp. Feed small amounts once or twice daily to prevent bloat.

### What water temperature do betta fish need?

Bettas require water kept between 76–82°F (24–28°C). Temperatures outside this range suppress immune function and shorten lifespan. A submersible adjustable heater is essential — room temperature alone is rarely sufficient.

### What is the difference between a male and female betta?

Males have longer, more elaborate fins and vivid coloration used to attract mates and intimidate rivals. Females are smaller, shorter-finned, and display an ovipositor (egg spot). Females can sometimes be kept together in groups of 5+ in a "sorority tank."

### Why is my betta fish not eating?

Common causes include water temperature below 76°F, stress from a new environment, constipation from overfeeding, or illness. Fast the fish for 1–2 days, verify temperature, and check for other disease symptoms like clamped fins or white spots.

---
*Source: [FishStores.org](https://www.fishstores.org/guides/betta-fish)*
*Last updated: March 17, 2026*